Prepare the oven and pan. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line a 9 × 5-inch loaf pan with parchment paper, leaving an overhang for easy removal.
Combine the dry ingredients. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl.
Mix the butter and sugar. In a large bowl, whisk the melted, slightly cooled butter and sugar until well combined. Add the eggs and vanilla, whisking until smooth.
Finish the batter. Whisk in the buttermilk. Add the dry ingredients and gently mix just until no dry flour remains. Avoid overmixing.
Make the chocolate batter. Divide the batter evenly between two bowls. Add the sifted cocoa powder to one half and mix until combined.
Layer the batters. Spoon the vanilla and chocolate batters alternately into the prepared pan until both are used. Gently level the surface without mixing the colors together.
Bake. Loosely tent the pan with aluminum foil, allowing space for the cake to rise. Bake for about 60 minutes, removing the foil during the final 10 minutes. A toothpick inserted into the center should come out clean or with a few moist crumbs. If wet batter remains, bake a little longer and check again.
Cool. Let the cake rest in the pan for about 15 minutes. Lift it out using the parchment paper and transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.
Prepare the ganache. Combine the chopped chocolate and heavy cream in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of gently simmering water. Do not let the bowl touch the water. Stir until melted and smooth, then remove from the heat. Let it cool slightly until thickened but still pourable.
Glaze and serve. Place the cooled loaf on a serving plate. Pour the ganache over the top, spreading gently and allowing it to drip down the sides. Let the topping set slightly before slicing.